The wood stove has a horizontal format which provides a spacious combustion chamber for larger logs.The glass door provides a perfect view of the burning logs and an external ash removal solution ensures easy removal of the ashes.This is hidden by a practical ash lip that catches sparks or ashes if they fall outside the door, in an efficient way.
This is a compact wood stove that is well suited for low effect heating, while it is also strong enough to handle periods of strong cold. Jtul F 3 is available with both enamelled and painted surface. An enamelled surface is maintenance free, easy to keep clean and keeps looking good even after many years of use. The base ended up slightly canted from the 4 corners of the walls, but you need to break out a tape measure to notice. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Im replacing the secondary air assembly, all 3 burn plates, and the bottom grate. Should I go ahead and break it down even further so I can start fresh or should I let sleeping dogs lie, as it were, and leave the outer sides together There is some surface rust that I was going to sandblast. I am also looking for stove paint recommendations- the stove is currently painted flat black. The new pieces are unpainted and Id like to get them painted before surface rust has a chance to start. Jotul F3 Wood Stove Parts Manual Only ListsI cannot find the gasket size for the secondary burn inlet and the ash box, does anyone know this The manual only lists sizes for the door, door glass, top plate, and ash door. What is the best gasket cement to use I think thats it for now. Im looking forward to getting this finished and enjoying my new stove. Not sure about the gasket, is this an F3CB If so the manual calls for 16 of 316 gasket for the air manifold and 36 of low density 14 gasket for the ash pan. In lieu of that, Rutland Furnace cement or perhaps Hearthstones cement I havent tried the later, but am curious about it. Nearly all the bolts need replacing, rather than get them piecemeal from Jotul, at 5 and more for each, I was planning on getting them from a hardware store. Indian channels in kodiI figure grade 10.9 should be fine. Is there a reason why I shouldnt do this. I am an auto mechanic and well versed in fasteners, so I understand different grades, pitches, diameters, and materials. Is there a reason I should use stainless fasteners Ive never been a huge fan of stainless in high heat applications- It seems to gall upon removal more than steel. I also am a big fan of copper based anti-seize and was planning on using that on all the fasteners. If you break a bolt, just drill and tap it with the same metric thread. Only 2 snapped off in the castings and these were easily drilled out with no damage to the threads in the castings. Daniel garcia fraud files blogOne of the set screws for the top lid had been drilled out by the previous owner and rigged with a incorrect bolt. This was repaired with a M6x1.0 helicoil to get back to factory specs. I ended up replacing all 3 burn plates, the insulating layer, the secondary air assembly, and the bottom grate. I then painted all the pieces flat black and borrowed a friends powdercoating oven to heat cure them before assembly. The only pieces I didnt cure were the 4 main walls- which I wanted to cement together while the metal was bare. I didnt jig it, instead I used the assembly bolts to hold it together.
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